NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.
Disclaimer
We DO NOT own the graphic and information in this post – it all came from the Taiwan Cycling Single Portal built and maintained by the Ministry of Transportation and Communications of the Taiwan Government. This website is the authoritative source of information for all those who plan to do the around-the-island trip in Taiwan. It’s very useful, but unfortunately not very user-friendly in our opinion. Therefore, what we are trying to do here is to re-organize the information in a way that we find handy and mobile-friendly.
“Fancy riding the east coast of Taiwan in November?” asked my mate Jon last August. Before then, Taiwan had meant little more to me than Giant cycles – the world’s biggest cycle manufacturer – and the infamous Taiwan KOM challenge, but my interest was piqued.
A little research and my mind was made up. Encouraged by Giant, Taiwan has developed excellent cycling infrastructure in recent years. Cycle tourism is increasingly popular. The best routes are on the less developed eastern side of the island, where one can choose between flatter coastal routes and any number of dramatic mountain passes. Jon rides sporadically and I was recovering from a couple of months’ illness, so we sketched out a relatively unambitious clockwise route from the capital Taipei to its second city, Khaosiung.
Arrival
I landed mid-morning at Taoyuan International Airport and took the train to Taipei Central station and the metro to our BnB. All was civilised, calm and welcoming. The train was fast, clean and efficient. Most signs are in English as well as Chinese, which helps no end with navigation. Some metro stations play ambient music as trains approach, as if to say, “Your train is approaching. Queue calmly, relax and enjoy the ride.”
The city was busy, but not hectic like some Asian metropolises. People keep to themselves, often separated from their wider surroundings by a face mask and a mobile phone screen. This is a highly connected country and the younger generation is permanently plugged in. The weather was a comfortable 26 degrees, a little humid, but by no means oppressive. I liked this place already.
Jon arrived separately and we soon set about exploring the neighbourhood. We were staying in Datong district, one of the older parts of Taipei. Untidy, older low-rise buildings nestle next to taller modern ones. Temples are everywhere, some on imposing large plots, others in small gaps between shop fronts. Taiwanese are superstitious people and even non-believers feel compelled to make regular prayers and offerings. Our favourite temple was the magnificent Dalongdong Baoan Temple, where we marvelled at the architecture and paid homage to the gods.
The next morning, we headed to the nearest Giant store to hire bikes. The network of official Giant stores has a good-value cycle hire scheme, where you can even drop the bikes off at a different location. The shop assistant was friendly enough, but explained that they needed two weeks’ notice for bookings. The remaining stock bikes were too small, unsurprising in a country where the average male height is just 171 cm. A quick, panicked web search found the excellent Bike Express Taiwan, who arranged to deliver bikes and accessories to our door the next day.
Day 1 – Taipei to Jiufen, 46 km
Our bikes arrived just as promised. We loaded up the panniers, fuelled ourselves with street food and headed off into the city streets. A little intimidated at first by the chaotic traffic, we soon got to grips with the flow of things. There are shared cycle and scooter lanes on most major roads, with large advance-stop boxes at junctions. After around 3 km we reached the Keelung River cycle path, where we enjoyed traffic-free riding for the next 15 km – easier on the lungs, as well as the nerves. From Hengke onwards, though, we were back on busy roads as we weaved our way through the urban sprawl of the river basin. Only in the last 4km, as we climbed towards Jiufen, we were in anything remotely resembling countryside.
Jiufen itself is a stunning mountain town, with narrow alleyways scattered on the hillside of the old town. It is rumoured to have influenced Studio Ghibli anime films such as Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle.
We stayed at Rita’s House homestay, just below the old town. Our hosts were most welcoming and helpful, a benefit that was to become a theme of our Taiwan tour. Rita advised us to go into town before 7pm, so we just had time for a quick shower before dragging ourselves up the many, many steps to the old town. The alleys were full of street food, trinket shops and lanterns, not to mention hundreds of Japanese and Korean tourists. We grabbed a bite to eat and I bought souvenirs for my children – and just in time, because, sure enough, everything but the 7-Eleven and Family Mart closed dead on 7pm and busloads of tourists were spirited off into the night.
Since we would have a free day on the last day of the company outing, we decided to take a short bike trip in Taipei city. Have been searching for some info, I ended up using the bike rental service with Bike Express Taiwan. The appointment is on March 11th, 8:30 am at the hotel and they would pickup the bikes at 6 pm. There were 8 of us and half have never been in the bike trip before. So what I have planned would be quite easy with total distance of around 15–20 km. for the entire route.
Our fate then relied on the weather. There had been raining everyday since the beginning of the trip. Luckily, there was no rain on our day.
The bikes we used were Rikulau Audax Hecules with variety of sizing. After signing the contract and paid the deposit, we then started our trip.
การปั่นจักรยานในนครไทเปง่ายมากๆ เพราะทำเหมือนคนเดินถนน แค่เปลี่ยนจากสองขาเป็นสองล้อ ปั่นไปบนฟุตปาธ ซึ่งจะมีเลนจักรยาน หากถนนไหนไม่มีเลนจักรยานเฉพาะก็ใช้ร่วมกับคนเดิน โดยกฎหมายจะให้สิทธิคนเดินก่อน “Pedestrian has right of way” เวลาจะข้ามถนนก็ข้ามตรงทางม้าลายตามจังหวะสัญญาณไฟ และอย่าลืมว่า ไทเปขับรถชิดขวา ดังนั้นเวลาเราปั่นในเลนก็ต้องปั่นชิดขวาเช่นกัน เพราะอาจมีจักรยานปั่นสวนทางมาได้
Cycling in Taipei is very easy. We cycle on the footpath which normally have a bike lane. If there is no specific bike lane on the footpath then bicycles will share the path with the pedestrian. Wait for the green signal when crossing the road and remember that in Taipei, drive rule is on right hand side.
จุดแรกของเราคือไป Taipei Expo Park ซึ่งเคยใช้เป็นที่จัดงาน Taipei International Flora Exposition ในปี 2010–2011 มาก่อน แม้ว่าจะนานมากแล้วแต่สภาพพื้นที่ยังสวยและดูดีอยู่มาก ไฮไลท์ของสวนนี้อยู่ที่ Expo Dome ที่เป็นเวทีแสดงงาน สถาปนิกวิศวกรอย่างเราจึงกิ๊วก๊าวกับรูปลักษณ์ของโดมกันพอสมควร
Street Furniture และ ป้ายสัญญลักษณ์ต่างๆ เป็นศิลปะที่สวยงามน่าสนใจ
There are several interesting areas in the park. Floral tunnel and the solar bridge are ones among them. All street furniture, graphic and signage are of interested items too.
There are 40 solar panel on the bridge roof. เราปั่นผ่าน Fine Art Park มาออกมุมบนสุดของสวนส่วนที่ติดกับ Minzu Park เพื่อไปจุดหมายที่สองคือบ้านโบราณที่ชื่อว่า Lin An Tai Ancestral House เสียดายที่ลืมเช็คมาก่อนว่าเขาปิดวันจันทร์ เราเลยได้แต่ถ่ายรูปด้านหน้ากับส่องๆดูเท่านั้น
Second destination was the Lin An Tai Ancestral House. But unfortunately, is is closed on Monday so we could only look from outside.
Lin An Tai Ancestral House ใกล้เที่ยงแล้ว เราตั้งใจไปกินกลางวันกันที่ตลาดปลา Addiction Aquatic Development (บางคนในทีมถูกหลอกล่อให้มาปั่นเพียงเพราะบอกว่าจะพาไปกินอาหารทะเลที่นี่ อิอิ) ใครไม่เคยมาไทเป ขอแนะนำให้มากินอาหารทะเลที่นี่สักครั้งหนึ่ง ราคาถูกและสดมาก รับเงินสดเท่านั้นนะคะ นอกจากอาหารทะเลแล้วก็มีอาหารอื่นๆด้วย มีทั้งแบบเลือกมาสดๆแล้วให้นำไปปรุง หรือจะเลือกที่ปรุงสำเร็จแล้วก็ได้
ด้านหลังของพื้นที่กินนี้ เป็นตลาดปลาจริงๆคือ Taipei Fish Market แต่เรายังไม่เคยเข้าไปดู
Addiction Aquatic Development is a place where we had lunch. If you spend time in Taipei, this is a place of recommendation. The food is really good, fresh and reasonable price, especially all seafood. Behind the development is the Taipei Fish Market.
อิ่มแล้วก็ปั่นต่อ ไปหาที่กินกาแฟกับขนมกัน ย่านถนน Fujin Street แหล่งฮิปสเตอร์คือเป้าหมายถัดไป อาจเป็นเพราะวันจันทร์ คนก็เลยค่อนข้างน้อย หลายๆร้านก็หยุดวันนี้ด้วย
After lunch we went to “Fujin Street”; the famous area for hipster. It might be because of Monday so there was very few people around thus less shops openned.
We spent an hour enjoying our coffee and dessert at Au Petit Cochon: The Little Pig cafe. They serve good coffee though.
ช่วงบ่ายเราวางแผนไปปั่นริมน้ำกัน
จาก Fujin Street ปั่นตรงไปเรื่อยๆมุ่งหน้าริมแม่น้ำ ปั่นบนฟุตปาธเลาะกำแพงไปจนถึงทางเข้าสวนใต้ Minquan Bridge พอปั่นเข้าไปด้านหลังกำแพงเท่านั้น ทุกคนถึงกับร้องว้าว รีบจอดรถลงไปถ่ายรูปกันใหญ่
From Fujin Street, we rode in the direction toward the river. Enter the riverside park via the entrance under the Minquan Bridge just to see the large lush mound with white tiny flower scattered around, down below is the Keelung river.
The area along the river side is mixed with pavement, colorful flower garden and street art. We rode along this area until the exit under the Rainbow Bridge.
จุดสุดท้ายเราไปแวะที่อนุสรณ์สถานของดร. ซุนยัดเซ็น Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall ซึ่งใกล้กับช่วงเวลาที่เขามีการเปลี่ยนทหารรักษาการณ์กันพอดี ก็เลยได้ดูอีกรอบ ที่นี่ไม่ต้องเบียดคนมาก แต่ที่น่าสนใจคือนิทรรศการภาพวาดที่กำลังจัดแสดงอยู่ ชื่องาน Female Elegant Demeanor — Woman Figure Watercolor Painting Exhibition เป็นภาพวาดสีน้ำภาพเหมือนคน ที่เหมือนมากๆ ขนาดถ่ายรูปแบบซูมยังเหมือนคนจริงๆเลย
เราออกมาจาก Memorial Hall กันตอน 17:30 แล้วปั่นกลับโรงแรมทันเวลานัดหมายส่งรถพอดี
เป็นทริปปั่นที่สนุกและน่าจดจำอีกทริปหนึ่งทีเดียว
The last stop was Dr. Sun Yat Sen Memorail Hall. We went there by the time they changed the guard so we had an opportunity to see the event with less crowd. One exhibition in the Bo-ai Gallery is “Female Elegant Demeanor — Woman Figure Watercolor Painting Exhibition” which is really impressed for realiness of the painting.
We left the memorial hall around 5:30 pm and arrived on time of the pickup at 6 as scheduled.
It was such one of a great bike trip we had so far.
Thank you Lois from Bike Express Taiwan for your great service.
